ISRAEL inc. Achzivland

Location - Middle East; Capital - Jerusalem; Population - 7 million; Currency - New Israeli Shekel MORE ISRAEL

In late 2014 I returned to one of my favourite destinations, Israel, for a fourth time, but the first time in over 15 years (where does the time go?!). I also wanted to see Palestine, somewhere I'd never been. After landing at Ben Gurion airport I headed north to Haifa by service taxi - November 2014.

20 New Israeli Shekels

The undoubted highlight of Haifa are the beautiful Baha'i Gardens

The terraced gardens lead uphill from Ben Gurion Avenue to the Shrine of the Bab - Haifa

Looking seaward down Ben Gurion Avenue from the Baha'i Gardens - Haifa

For a tour of the Baha'i Gardens first head up Mount Carmel and take in the Mediterranean views all the way to Lebanon - Haifa

The Baha'i faith was founded in 19th century Persia by Baha'ullah and has over seven million followers around the world - Haifa

The golden dome of the Shrine of the Bab. The official Baha'i website bestows the title of "Prophet-Herald of the Baha'i" on the Bab - Haifa

Organise a free tour of the gardens. And get ready for climbing a lot of steps! Haifa

Decorations adorn the Shrine of the Bab - Haifa

The Gardens and Shrine look superb at night - Haifa

The terraced garden lights follow the curves of the steps upwards - Haifa

Brightening up a Carmelit metro station - Haifa

More art and sculptures are on show in the Wadi Nisnas area - Haifa

The Ursula Malbin Sculpture Garden is a fine spot to rest legs and take in the city views, especially after a steep uphill walk - Haifa

The Stella Maris Carmelite Monastery - Haifa

Take the cable car from near the monastery down to Bat Galim beach - Haifa

Bat Galim promenade leads to Bat Galim beach - Haifa

A short walk uphill from the museum is Elijah's Cave. This grotto is a holy Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Druze site where the prophet Elijah is said to have taken refuge - Haifa

HaCarmel beach is on the west coast of the peninsula near Hof HaCarmel train and bus stations - Haifa

Akko is an attractive place and an easy day trip from Haifa

The old walled city is predominantly an Arab town - Akko

A great snapshot of the old town as the train comes into Akko

It was a windy, rainswept day and the waves were bashing the seafront - Akko

But of course it's perfect weather for windsurfers - Akko

For a panoramic view take the steps up to the city walls - Akko

The old city dates back to the 12th century, with various additions/renovations made up to the 18th century - Akko

The courtyard of Akko Citadel, the starting place for a visit to the Knights' Halls - Akko

The Knights' Halls were home to the Knights Hospitaller military order, later to be known as the Sovereign Military Order of Malta - Akko

A subterranean tunnel in the Knights' Halls was used as an escape route for the knights - Akko

The green-domed Al-Jazzar Mosque - Akko

A brief glimpse of sunshine in the courtyard of Al-Jazzar Mosque - Akko

The old town is a UNESCO world heritage site - Akko

The Turkish Bazaar has plenty of souvenir shops and cafes - Akko

As the old city is mainly a Muslim area it's an ideal destination on a Saturday, when Shabbat means many Jewish areas shut down - Akko

In addition to the bazaar there's the more local-orientated souq - Akko

The Hebrew name for the town is Akko, in Arabic it's Akka while the western version is Acre

The Templar Crusader Tunnel was only dicovered in the 1990s. It linked a Templar palace to the port - Akko

Although Haifa's Baha'i Gardens are top of the beauty stakes, the faith's holiest site is further up the coast at Akko

Baha'ullah, the "Prophet-Founder of the Baha'i", was born in Tehran in modern-day Iran - Akko

Due to his faith Baha'ullah was exiled from Persia and eventually imprisoned in Akko where he died. This is the Shrine of Baha'ullah also known as Bahje House - Akko

An Israeli naval boat patrols the waters at the sensitive border with Lebanon. Facing southwards the coast stretches to Akhziv, Nahariya and fades away to Akko and Haifa - Rosh HaNikra

Israeli soldiers at the entrance to Rosh HaNikra grottoes, a tourist attraction of bright blue Mediterranean water swirling in sea caves - Rosh HaNikra

Surprise surprise this is as far as you can walk. The border remains closed to visitors - Rosh HaNikra

The Israeli flag and a notice stating 'Closed Military Area - Photography is Forbidden'. Oops - Rosh HaNikra

Beirut's a lot closer than Jerusalem - Rosh HaNikra

ACHZIVLAND

Many years after coming here when I worked on the nearby Kibbutz Ga'aton, I wanted to revisit the bizarre territory that is Achzivland

Eli Avivi moved to Akhziv in 1970. The following year he proclaimed the independent state of Achzivland in protest at the goverment's intention to bulldoze his home. You could say they weren't pleased..

For a small fee visitors can make use of Eli's private beach, which I read is actually leased from the Israeli government. Barbecues are also popular in the summer months with plenty of Israeli visitors - Achzivland

Local fishermen avail themselves of facilities at Achzivland. Achziv Nature Reserve is next door - Achzivland

The ramshackle museum is the perfect definition of 'eclectic' - Achzivland

..Not to mention 'eccentric'. I love it! And of course Eli has a (slightly rundown) dormitory-style hostel on site - Achzivland

Get your passport stamped. Or even buy an Achzivland passport!

BBC write up: Eli Avivi, Rina and Achzivland

Eli's an elderly man now so his wife Rina runs the show with the help of volunteers. Take a taxi or bus from Nahariya heading north less than 5km, it's next to the Achziv Nature Reserve entrance - Achzivland

Earlier in the day I was standing at the headland at Rosh HaNikra - Nahariya

A stall selling falafel, the national food of Israel. Add pita, pickled salad, tahini and hummus for a cheap snack - Nahariya

My first week in Israel was very wet! It wasn't sunbathing weather for sure - Nahariya

Nahariya is a quiet beach resort but it was a nostalgic return as it's the nearest town to Ga'aton, the kibbutz I'd worked at three times before

South of Haifa on the coast are the Roman ruins of Caesarea

As a storm drew closer I tried (and failed miserably) to take this photo with fork lightning as a backdrop - Caesarea

Horses stand at the entrance to the Herodian Amphitheatre - Caesarea

The Herodian Amphitheatre could hold 10,000 spectators - Caesarea

Caesarea was built on the orders of Herod and, as the name suggests, dedicated it to the Roman emperor Augustus Caesar

The sun fights valiantly through the Mediterranean stormclouds - Caesarea

Welcome to the Caesarea Experience and the Crusader Citadel - Caesarea

It's a two-hour bus journey from Haifa to Safed in the Galilee.
Here the ruins of a Crusader fortress lie on the hilltop Citadel Park - Safed

Descending the steps from the park brings you to Jerusalem Street and the former British police station, bullet-ridden following battles in 1948 - Safed

Behind the station is a Davidka Monument, dedicated to the Davidka mortar used in the 1948 Israeli War of Independence - Safed

Ma'alot Olei HaGardom is a staircase built by the British during the Mandate (1920-1948) to separate the Arab and Jewish communities - Safed

Safed (Tsfat or Tzfat in Hebrew) is known for its Artists' Quarter, with several art galleries and studios

..Including this one - Safed

The Synagogue Quarter is a compact, atmospheric pedestrian area of cobbled streets, cafes and art galleries - Safed

Colourful street art in the Synagogue Quarter - Safed

A covered walkway linking the Artists' and Synagogue Quarters - Safed

Inside the Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue - Safed

Walk down the steep valley slope to the Ancient Jewish Cemetery - Safed

The Tombs of the Kabbalists (Kabbalah being a form of Jewish mysticism) are contained in the cemetery, with notables having their tomb painted blue - Safed

More colourful art in the Artists' Quarter - Safed

What is this?! It looks like a giant corkscrew or a work-skip. I'm guessing maybe a kids' playground with staircase? Safed

Website and content Copyright © 2008-2018 Mark Wilkinson. All rights reserved.

LINKS

www.akko.org.il - guide to Akko

http://bus.co.il - bus timetables, including the main bus company Egged

www.goisrael.com - Israel tourist board

www.rail.co.il - train timetables

www.visit-haifa.org

I am not responsible for the content of external websites.