
KALININGRAD - Russia ENCLAVES
Location - Baltic, Eastern Europe; Capital - Moscow; Population - Kaliningrad - 950,000; Russia - 143 million; Currency - Russian Rouble MORE KALININGRAD
It's an overnight train journey from Vilnius in Lithuania to the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad. I stopped off in the eastern city of Chernyakhovsk before heading north to Sovetsk and then on to its regional capital - April 2015.
Kaliningrad is the westernmost region of Russia, sandwiched between Poland, Lithuania and the Baltic Sea. In Soviet times this made little difference but following its disintegration, the newly independent Lithuania isolated Kaliningrad from the rest of Russia. Consequently the enclave is now surrounded by two EU member states.
To many, Kaliningrad is better known by its German name, Königsberg, formerly part of the German kingdom of (East) Prussia. In 1945 Stalin's Red Army seized control of the region and much of the German population fled, were deported or killed.
A highly strategic and militarised region with the only year round ice-free port in Russia, it was off-limits to foreigners until the break up of the Soviet Union in the 1990s. Even now permits are required to access the Baltiysk Spit.
Like the rest of Russia the Rouble is the currency of the Kaliningrad enclave
Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov, aka Lenin, Bolshevik leader of the 1917 Russian Revolution - Chernyakhovsk
The main attraction of Chernyakhovsk is the 14th century Insterburg Castle
German words in the grounds of Insterburg Castle, 'Insterburg das Schloss'. Insterburg was the German name for Chernyakhovsk while schloss means castle
Opposite the castle is a pond surrounded by rather decrepit buildings - Chernyakhovsk
I guess this marks the 70 year anniversary relating to the Soviet Union's war against Nazi Germany in WWII. This was a result of Hitler's breaking the secret Soviet-German non-aggression Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact in 1941, when he invaded the USSR - Chernyakhovsk
There's plenty of water towers dotted around the enclave, this one being on ul Sportivnaya - Chernyakhovsk
Granted the pavement's being repaired here, but my feeling was of a neglected, run down city in need of an economic boost - Chernyakhovsk
The 19th century St Michael's Church - Chernyakhovsk
A little bit of street art near the market in Chernyakhovsk
A short drive out of Chernyakhovsk are the ruins of Georgenburg Castle
And next door to the castle is Georgenburg Stud Farm which also has a hotel - Chernyakhovsk
Before arriving in Chernyakhovsk, Russian immigration formalities take place at the border town of Nesterov
From Chernyakhovsk I took a bus to Sovetsk, passing through Slavsk on the way
Sovetsk lies on the the northern border with Lithuania. These tanks are part of an outdoor museum but there is a significant military presence in the area
The Queen Louise Bridge over the Nemunas River links Sovetsk to Panemune in Lithuania
Pretty big! In days gone by elk (or moose in America) were prevalent in the Baltics but I'm not sure how many are around today - Sovetsk
There's plenty of shops along the pedestrianised ul Pobedy - Sovetsk
The obligatory Lenin statue - Sovetsk
An eternal flame sits in front of a memorial honouring military heroes - Sovetsk
A colourful onion-domed church - Sovetsk
I love this cute little sculpture outside a shop on Leninsky pr - Kaliningrad
On the opposite side of Leninsky pr is the Mother Russia monument - Kaliningrad
Ploshchad Pobedy is the main square of Kaliningrad. It translates to Victory Square, honouring Russia's victory over Germany.
In 1934 the square was called Adolf Hitler Platz after the Nazi leader.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour on Ploshchad Pobedy - Kaliningrad
One of the best bars in Kaliningrad is Kmel, inside the Clover City Centre on Ploshchad Pobedy. Help yourself to beers brewed on-site, local cuisine and horse-radish vodka (disgusting!)
Peter the Great stands on Mira Street, a grand avenue with stately mansions as well as the Drama Theatre - Kaliningrad
Two bronze fighting bulls, though not sure the red bits are the original colour! Kaliningrad
The Scala cinema has a quote from Woody Allen alongside his specs - Kaliningrad
A striking shop shutter on Mira Street - Kaliningrad
Also on Mira Street is the Cosmonaut Monument, dedicated to the four Kaliningrad-born cosmonauts - Kaliningrad
A larger-than-life statue of Moscow-born musician Vladimir Vysotsky in Central Park - Kaliningrad
Of all things, Central Park's Queen Louise Memorial Church has been converted to a puppet theatre - Kaliningrad
Worth a visit is the Bunker Museum, just off Leninsky pr - Kaliningrad
It was the German military bunker where Otto Lasch surrendered to the Soviets in the Battle of Konigsberg, April 1945 - Kaliningrad
The man-made Prud Nizhniy, or Lower Pond, is a recreational area - Kaliningrad
Walk along the east side towards the Upper Pond and take in some street art - Kaliningrad
Lower Pond street art - Kaliningrad
The tag 'Kartoon' pops up a few times around the city - Kaliningrad
 
Also on Lower Pond is the History & Arts Museum, which has a large section on the USSR's war against the Nazis, though it's virtually all in Russian. And is that a Stalin statue gathering dust in the basement? Kaliningrad
Kaliningrad was protected by a series of forts built in the 19th century, this one being Dohna Tower
In WWII it was the last fort under German control to surrender to the Red Army. Today the Dohna Tower houses the Amber Museum - Kaliningrad
Right next door is Rossgarten Gate, now converted to a restaurant - Kaliningrad
Opposite the Lower Pond's northern tip is the Upper Pond, where couples and families go for walks while the kids rollerskate and play basketball - Kaliningrad
Prud Verhniy, or Upper Pond - Kaliningrad
Fishing on the Upper Pond with the Dohna Tower behind - Kaliningrad
An attractive place for al fresco dining and drinking (in warm weather at least) is Fish Village, a small reconstructed quarter on the banks of the Pregolya River - Kaliningrad
Fish Village, with the grey monstrosity that is the Dom Sovietov to the left. Dom Sovietov (House of Soviets) was built on the site of the 13th century Konigsberg Castle that was destroyed in WWII. However, due to inadequate foundations, it has never been occupied - Kaliningrad
The lighthouse at Fish Village, with Kaliningrad Cathedral across the river - Kaliningrad
Another quality sculpture (not a real door!) - Kaliningrad
A Fish Village mural - Kaliningrad
Kaliningrad Cathedral, Fish Village and the Pregolya River - Kaliningrad
Kaliningrad Cathedral is situated on tiny Kant Island. It originally dates back to the 14th century but was the subject of major reconstruction in 1990 - Kaliningrad
Outside the Cathedral is the tomb of Immanuel Kant - Kaliningrad
Immanuel Kant was an 18th century German philosopher, born in what was then Konigsberg (modern day Kaliningrad) - Kaliningrad
Opposite the Cathedral is the 19th century former stock exchange - Kaliningrad
On Kant Island in front of Kaliningrad Cathedral is Sculpture Park, which includes one more of Peter the Great - Kaliningrad
The Museum of the World Ocean lies on the northern bank of the Pregolya - Kaliningrad
The outstretched arms of St Nicholas stand in front of the Monument to Fishermen near the World Ocean Museum - Kaliningrad
The Museum of the World Ocean comprises ships, a submarine, various naval machinery and weaponry as well as several exhibitions - Kaliningrad
On board the Vityaz, a former scientific research ship - Kaliningrad
The hammer and sickle is a Communist symbol that adorned the USSR flag - Kaliningrad
This Sunday was Russian Orthodox Easter and the locals were out in force on the banks of the Pregolya River, with plenty of food stalls, makeshift bars and live music - Kaliningrad
A brass band are introduced to the crowds at the Museum of the World Ocean complex - Kaliningrad
Shashlyk, huge chunks of barbecued skewered lamb, make a filling meal with bread and salad - Kaliningrad
Standing on the B413 submarine while windsurfers strut their stuff on the Pregolya - Kaliningrad
A photo of Vladimir Putin, President of Russia, hangs in the submarine mess - Kaliningrad
Experience the cramped conditions of a submarine and see how all space is put to use - Kaliningrad
A B413 submarine missile launcher - Kaliningrad
The family orientated Park of Culture and Recreation - Kaliningrad
Brilliant! While in the park I stumbled across the Upside Down House - Kaliningrad
And yes everything is topsy turvy inside too - Kaliningrad
Close to the south bank of the Pregolya is Friedrichsburg Gate, one of several forts surrounding the city.
It dates to the 17th century but was reconstructed in the 19th century - Kaliningrad
King's Gate, or Royal Gate, is on Frunze Street in the east of the city and also houses a museum - Kaliningrad
A short walk brings you to Sackheim Gate - Kaliningrad
The circular Wrangel Tower lies between Dohna Tower and Ploshchad Pobedy - Kaliningrad
Outside the South train station is a statue of Mikhail Kalinin, the Russian after whom Stalin named the city, though I don't think he ever set foot here - Kaliningrad
 
Two forts near the South train station are, left, Friedland Gate, while on the right is Brandenburg Gate - Kaliningrad
A monument to war dead (air force?) though the inscriptions are in Cyrillic so I couldn't tell which. Time to learn Russian! Kaliningrad
And back to the 19th century forts. The Astronomical Bastion is on Gvardeysky Street in the west - Kaliningrad
Keep heading south along Gvardeysky Street to the Eternal Flame - Kaliningrad
Honouring the WWII dead - Kaliningrad
A random statue between Hotel Kaliningrad and the bridge to Kant Island. Love the cat! Kaliningrad
Close by is another work tagged by Kartoon - Kaliningrad
Clever use of shapes in this street art - Kaliningrad
Obama Pizza! Any copyright infringement here? Kaliningrad
Originally this statue of Lenin stood in front of the Cathedral, but it was removed and in 2006 placed here, along a road between the bus and train stations - Kaliningrad
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LINKS
http://ecolines.net - coaches to Kaliningrad
www.eng.rzd.ru - Russian Railways website
http://visit-kaliningrad.ru - Kaliningrad tourist board
www.visitrussia.org.uk - Russia National Tourist Office
www.realrussia.co.uk - UK/Russia based company - visa support and train tickets
www.seat61.com - Seat 61's page on train travel in Russia
I am not responsible for the content of external websites.
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