NAGORNO KARABAKH

Location - Caucasus, Europe; Capital - Stepanakert in Armenian, called Khankendi in Azerbaijani; Population - 150,000; Currency - Armenian Dram & Azerbaijan Manat MORE NAGORNO KARABAKH

It was little over an hour by taxi from Goris in southern Armenia to the Nagorno Karabakh 'border' via the Lachin corridor, and less than two to Shusha - September 2019.

In 1921 the Soviet Union, under Stalin, transferred the Nagorno Karabakh Autonomous Oblast from Soviet Armenia to Soviet Azerbaijan, despite having a majority ethnic Armenian population (but a significant Azerbaijani minority). Conflict between Nagorno Karabakh, backed by Armenia, and Azerbaijan that began in the 1980s escalated into full-scale war as the Soviet Union collapsed. The size of the modern day region occupies a larger area than the Soviet oblast, including an expansion west to join with Armenia and south to Iran. It declared itself independent as the Republic of Artsakh, though this is recognised by very few countries. Relations between Armenia and Azerbaijan remain poor and their borders are closed.

November 2020 update: Following war in late 2020, a peace agreement was signed allowing Azerbaijan to retain areas they had reclaimed, including Shusha (Shushi in Armenian). In addition, the agreement stipulates Armenian withdrawal from the region linking the Karabakh border to Armenia, an area historically not part of Nagorno Karabakh. A link between Armenia and Karabakh will be retained via the Lachin corridor, protected by Russian peacekeeping forces.

Nagorno Karabakh uses the Armenian Dram

This is an old 2 Artsakh Dram note no longer in circulation, featuring Gandzasar Cathedral

Areas of Nagorno Karabakh under Azerbaijan control will no doubt use the Azerbaijan Manat from November 2020

Does this monument indicate the 'border'? My driver spoke no English and I speak zero Armenian. As of late 2020 I believe this area will still be under Armenian control as it's along the Lachin corridor - Nagorno Karabakh border

A welcome sign followed soon after, predominantly in Armenian script - Nagorno Karabakh border

It's another 10-15mins drive before arrival at the immigration post. On the left is the Armenian flag, to the right is the 'Republic of Artsakh' - Nagorno Karabakh border

It's now possible to obtain a visa at the immigration post rather than reporting to offices in Stepanakert or Yerevan. Fill out the form indicating dates of stay and tick-box regions to visit. Officials then enter information on the visa sticker and hand it over - it's up to you if it goes in your passport. I was also given some sort of police registration letter to hand to officials when leaving, though no-one seemed too bothered by it. But keep hold of it just in case! November 2020 update: This info has probably gone out of the window..

My driver dropped me off at the 19th century Ghazanchetsots Cathedral in Shusha, all-in-all less than a 2hr drive from Gori, including immigration formalities. The cathedral was closed by the Soviets in 1920 then used by the Azeris to store missiles during the 1980/90s war

A statue of war hero Vazgen Sargsyan, who became Armenian prime minister in 1999 until his assassination a few months later. This will have been destroyed now the town's under Azerbaijan control - Shusha

Opposite the statue is the State Museum of Fine Arts, and close by the Money Museum - Shusha

Murals adorn a dilapidated building near the cathedral - Shusha

The town came under Armenian control in 1992 but there's still many buildings which are remnants of the war. It then reverted to Azerbaijan control in November 2020 - Shusha

Restoration work is ongoing on one of the mosques in town - Shusha

Not sure if this is a war ruin or just an unfinished apartment block - Shusha

Shusha is set between 1,400-1,800m altitude so I'm sure this stash of logs will come in very useful in winter

On some maps this restaurant is shown as Shusha Castle. If it is I'd hazard a guess it's a total reconstruction - Shusha

A section of the old town walls surround the castle. Or restaurant, whatever it is - Shusha

I went in search of more of the town walls and stumbled across what may be a covered tank in the undergrowth of hills surrounding Shusha

The 19th century green church is at the top of one of the many sloped streets on the outskirts of town - Shusha

A view of Ghazanchetsots Cathedral from the green church - Shusha

The Arts Centre has a collection of old Karabakh carpets. There's a separate Carpet Museum but it was closed when I visited - Shusha

The far left flag is that of the 'Republic of Artsakh' - Shusha

On the south east of town is Jederduz, a park overlooking the Hunot Gorge - Shusha

It's somehow possible to walk along the gorge bottom, following the flow of the Karkar River - Shusha

From Jederduz you can see the Karabakh capital below, Stepanakert. Called Khankendi in Azerbaijani, this photo shows how militarily strategic the capturing of Shusha is to Azerbaijan - it's a bird's eye view, standing above the city

A much brighter, warmer day to explore Stepanakert, starting with Tatik yev Papik on the northern outskirts

The monument is officially called We Are Our Mountains, highlighting the unity of the people with the mountains, but most translate it as Granny and Gramps - Stepanakert

There's a few souvenir stalls at the base of the monument - Stepanakert

Yes that's the Artsakh flag on this guy's taxi - Stepanakert

I had a great view from my hotel window, Hotel Sofia, located above a shopping centre and opposite the bazaar. The shopping centre has a good souvenir shop, selling Karabakh wines, brandy, vodka etc plus some local foods, cloths and handicrafts - Stepanakert

One of the fruit & vegetable stalls in the bazaar, very much for the locals - Stepanakert

But you can see Karabakh speciality jhingalov hats being made, a flatbread with herbs and vegetables - Stepanakert

Presumably some military boast/celebration? Translations welcome - Stepanakert

A little bit of street art brightening up a residential building - Stepanakert

Shaumian Square acts as a roundabout in the centre of town - Stepanakert

There's a good bar-restaurant on the edge of the square with giant beanbags and alfresco dining - Stepanakert

Love these information boards! There's several of them but I've chosen the drunken parent one - Stepanakert

The Artsakh flag is on show throughout the region - Stepanakert

The Stepanakert Republican Stadium - originally Josef Stalin Stadium - is used mainly for football matches - Stepanakert

And look at this! Euro 2019 was held here, or the 2019 CONIFA European Cup to be exact, South Ossetia winning the competition - Stepanakert

The steps leading down to the stadium (but not the entrance which is on the opposite side) - Stepanakert

Not your usual building hoardings! - Stepanakert

The photos depict military training/processions, the Karabakh war and Soviet-era demonstrations - Stepanakert

Displaying military might outside the Presidential building - Stepanakert

The Presidential building itself, on Veratsnund Square- Stepanakert

An excellent place for an outside drink and to watch (a little of) the world go by is at the Armenia Hotel, nearly opposite the Presidential building (left) - Stepanakert

The National Assembly is the region's parliament - Stepanakert

Next to it is another administrative building, though not sure what - Stepanakert

This looks like a simplified version of the Artsakh coat of arms set on the Artsakh flag - Stepanakert

The park behind the National Assembly, from where steps lead down to the football stadium - Stepanakert

At night the fountain illuminates and changes colour - Stepanakert

Locals really make use of space! There's clothes lines stretching across streets everywhere in residential Stepanakert

The Memorial Museum of Perished Soldiers evokes the poignancy of war, guided by a relative of one of the fallen soldiers - Stepanakert

Photos of the dead dominate the museum, here with a defiant weave of Karabakh's sights alongside the Artsakh coat of arms and military weaponry - Stepanakert

The musuem also details stories of rapprochment with fellow Azerbaijani families (a ruined Azeri flag is pictured) - Stepanakert

This section is dedicated to the April War of 2016, when Azerbaijan reclaimed 8-20km2 of territory - Stepanakert

In the same courtyard is the Museum of Missing Soldiers, where - like its neighbouring museum - relatives with a smattering of English can explain displays - Stepanakert

I'm guessing these guys are some of the fallen soldiers - Stepanakert

The Artsakh coat of arms - Stepanakert

Vazgen Sarsyan Street, honouring the Armenian miltary commander during the Karabakh war - Stepanakert

BH Brandy Co, based in Yerevan, makes Madatoff brandy as well as several wines and Karabakh fruit vodkas - Stepanakert

A statue of Stepan Shahumian stands in front of the Artsakh flag - Stepanakert

The Artsakh Museum of History covers Karabakh's ancient history through the Soviet era and world wars to the Karabakh war and present day. I don't recollect many informative English labels. Pretty average but the photos are worth a look - Stepanakert

Innovative roadside plant pots - Stepanakert

Lightbulb moment - street art in Stepanakert

A children's playground in need of some tender loving care - Stepanakert

Where else would you find the Sphinx restaurant?! - Stepanakert

Again, if you can translate this military reference please contact me - Stepanakert

It's got character but not too sure about living there.. - Stepanakert

The newly built Holy Mother of God Cathedral - Stepanakert

Like Nakhchivan in Azerbaijan the balcony wars become a bit silly, extension upon extension... - Stepanakert

A hillside cross overlooks Stepanakert

Alternate Armenian and Artsakh flags on Baghramyan Street - Stepanakert

The Artsakh flag with a superimposed coat of arms - Stepanakert

Baghramyan Street is the location of the Memorial Complex of Stepanakert - Stepanakert

It commemorates the 22,000 Karabakhis who died in WWII, as well as holding graves of those killed in the Karabakh war (pictured) - Stepanakert

I don't know if the Bardak pub is still open for business - Stepanakert

It was very closed during the day but I believe it comes alive in the evening - Stepanakert

The various sights of Nagorno Karabakh - Stepanakert

Trying to make pharmacy mannequins look sexy doesn't quite sit right - Stepanakert

More military references that I can't read - Stepanakert

This looks to be a mural painting a story or history of Karabakh - Stepanakert

Website and content Copyright © 2008-2020 Mark Wilkinson. All rights reserved.

LINKS

https://artsakh.news - Karabakh and Armenian news, from an Artsakh perspective

https://azerbaijan.travel - Azerbaijan tourism

www.nkr.am - Artsakh Ministry of Foreign Affairs, including referral to visa requirements

I am not responsible for the content of external websites.