TURKEY

Location - South east Europe/Middle East; Capital - Ankara; Population - 50 million; Currency - Turkish Lire MORE TURKEY

It's a tiring 30hr bus journey from Nakhchivan to Istanbul, via a changeover in Igdir, but the hustle and bustle of the city certainly wakes you up - April 2019.

The five Turkish Lire note, featuring Mustafa Kemal Ataturk

I flew from London to Igdir in the far eastern extreme of Turkey, on my way to Nakhchivan. And if you're lucky enough to get a blue sky day there's magnificaent views of Mt Ararat from the airstrip. I didn't quite get them here but struck gold a few days later (see my Nakhchivan photos for that) - Igdir

The drive from Igdir to Nakhchivan follows a narrow strip of land flanked by Armenia on the left and Iran to the right - Igdir

On the eastern outskirts of Igdir, near the main bus station, is Noah's Ark, which legend says landed on Mt Ararat. I reckon it's a reconstruction

In the same complex is the Genocide Memorial. The genocide of Armenians by Turkey is better known, but Turkey alleges that Armenia massacred Turks in World War I and the Turkish-Armenian war of 1920 - Igdir

After completing the marathon Nakhchivan-Istanbul journey I headed straight for Topkapi Palace, the 15th-19th century home of the sultans of the Ottoman empire. Pictured here is the Imperial Harem - Istanbul

It was such a contrast coming from Nakhchivan with virtually no tourists to huge queues for all the major sights, 45mins queuing for security then more for tickets etc. Try going off-peak, whenever that is, maybe late on a weekday. A few extra lire for a fast-track ticket is also well worth it - Istanbul

Audiences with the sultan would take place in the Imperial Hall - Istanbul

Turquoise and blue tiles set with Arabic script - Istanbul

Queues for the Baghdad Kiosk and Marble Terrace were long but the gardens are an attractive place to while away time - Istanbul

The Audience Chamber of Topkapi Palace. The number of rooms in the palace is pretty big, set among quite large grounds, so seeing everything would take a whole day if it's busy. I settled for the palace gardens, Harem and anything else without a queue - Istanbul

Standing next to Topkapi Palace's entrance gates is the Aya Sofya - Istanbul

The Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia in Greek) was originally a church, then a mosque, before it became a museum in 1935 on the orders of Ataturk - Istanbul

On either side are 19th century black Ottoman medallions with Arabic script. The walls are adorned with ancient mosaics which were plastered over when the church became a mosque - Istanbul

The minbar, or pulpit, is used by imam to deliver sermons - Istanbul

The current Aya Sofya structure was built as a church in the 6th century, but in 1453 the Ottomans converted it to a mosque - Istanbul

A huge floral display was on show ourside the Aya Sofya - Istanbul

In the grounds of the museum are the Ottoman tombs - Istanbul

They house the tombs of Ottoman sultans from the 16th & 17th centuries - Istanbul

The subterranean 6th century Basilica Cistern is just off the main square in Sultanahmet. It stored water coming via aqueducts all the way from the Black Sea - Istanbul

An upside-down Medusa head at the base of a cistern column. Strange, and nobody seems to know why - Istanbul

First setting eyes on the Sultanahmet Mosque, better known as the Blue Mosque, is a wow moment - Istanbul

The view from the courtyard while queueing for entry, which took only 15mins - Istanbul

The 17th century Blue Mosque gets its name from the colour of the interior tiles. Well I saw a few but not enough to think 'blue'. I guess it's more subtle - Istanbul

Worshippers at the Sultanahmet Mosque, aka Blue Mosque - Istanbul

Entry inside the mosque is allowed outside prayer times; remember to take off your shoes - Istanbul

This pleasant outdoor cafe centred on a fountain turned into a disappointment, but only because my order for turnip juice, as stated on the menu, turned up as a rather more mundane peach drink - Istanbul

Something tells me this isn't the real Harrods.. - Istanbul

Popular with local families is Gulhane Park, which used to form part of the Topkapi Palace gardens - Istanbul

The water sprinklers go full force in Gulhane Park - Istanbul

The Grand Bazaar is a big draw and a must see - Istanbul

The bazaar started out as a 15th century warehouse but grew and grew into the present day labyrinthine market - Istanbul

Traditional tea (çay in Turkish) glasses in the bazaar. Made in China? Probably - Istanbul

For sale, beautiful lamps full of colour - Istanbul

I stumbled across a han, or caravanserai (resting place for travellers) in the Grand Bazaar. As the bazaar expanded it took these hans, and everything else, under its wings - Istanbul

Buy anything and everything under one roof, or rather many roofs - Istanbul

If you only visit two mosques in Istanbul, make them the Blue Mosque and this one, Suleymaniye Mosque, near the Grand Bazaar (though I'm also thinking Camlica Mosque as a third)

The 16th century mosque was built by Suleyman I, the Ottoman sultan also known as Suleyman the Magnificent - Istanbul

The queues to enter are a lot shorter than the Blue Mosque - Istanbul

..Plus the courtyard looks more impressive than the Blue Mosque - Istanbul

Inside Suleymaniye Mosque - Istanbul

In the mosque grounds are also the turbes (tombs) of Suleyman I and his wife - Istanbul

Suleymaniye Mosque is located on one of Istanbul's hills, providing views of the Golden Horn, Bosphorus and the city

This view is from one of several rooftop cafes in the city. Centre right is Galata Tower, across the waters of the Golden Horn - Istanbul

A great view of the Blue Mosque and a distant TV Tower - Istanbul

Downhill from Suleymaniye Mosque near the Golden Horn is the atmospheric Spice Bazaar - Istanbul

It's not just spices on display, there's nuts, dried fruit, locum (Turkish delight), biscuits and sweets - Istanbul

The Galata Bridge links Eminomu and Karakoy across the Golden Horn. Go downstairs for a bite to eat or a shisha - Istanbul

Suleymaniye Mosque stands above the New Mosque, the latter being next to the Spice Bazaar - Istanbul

After crossing Galata Bridge to Karakoy I climbed the steep slopes to Galata Tower, a 14th century tower from the top of which are great views. Well apparently they are, but the queues were horrendous so I skipped it - Istanbul

However there's lots of alternative panoramas nearby in the guise of rooftop cafes, so just seek one out - Istanbul

The Aya Sofya is visible above the Golden Horn - Istanbul

Galata Bridge and the New Mosque, which is actually over 400 years old - Istanbul

A feline shop front on the walk down from Galata Tower to Galata Bridge - Istanbul

Exchanging hope for dope - Istanbul

The Istanbul Radio and TV Tower. At least that might be what it's called - Istanbul

Camlica Mosque is a massive new mosque, the largest in Turkey, completed in 2019 on the Asian side of Istanbul

The 2hr Short Bosphorus Tour leaving from Eminomu is an absolute bargain at just 12Lire. It also stops at Uskudar and Ortakoy before returning to Eminomu - Istanbul

The 19th century Ortakoy Mosque stands in front of the Bosphorus Bridge - Istanbul

Our boat passes the 15th century Rumeli Fortress - Istanbul

Jellyfish floating in the Bosphorus. Either that or lots of plastic bags.. - Istanbul

I hopped off at Uskudar on the Asian side for a bit of exploring - Istanbul

Across the Bosphorus to European Istanbul and what might be the Aya Sofya. Or is it the Blue Mosque? I don't know! - Istanbul

After Uskudar it was a couple of metro rides to Kadikoy, also on the Asian side - Istanbul

Some sort of coordinated song and dance was going on quayside - Istanbul

Besides the massive Camlica Mosque, the biggest attraction for me on the Asian side is the Kadikoy street art - Istanbul

I came across most of these in the side streets between Sogutlucesme Cad and Racizode Sk, just inland from the Kadikoy harbour. This one's tagged Magee - Istanbul

This street mural by Pixel Pancho reminds me of a robotic Tuareg or Bedouin - Istanbul

A tearful boy with his dogs, tagged by what looks to read Treze - Istanbul

Is it just me or does this android have a whistle for a face? Tagged Blank Generation - Istanbul

With Leyre, a cool Spaniard I met on the boat tour, at one of the several bars in Kadikoy - Istanbul

Istiklal Caddesi is modern Istanbul's main shopping district, a long pedestrianised street ending at Taksim Square

As Istiklal Caddesi heads into Taksim Square the police and vehicles are strong in evidence, particularly since the 2019 Istanbul mayoral election results were annulled, causing much political tension - Istanbul

And the heart of many a demonstration and political march is Taksim Square, in which stands the Republic Monument, celebrating the creation of the Turkish Republic in 1923 - Istanbul

Selling simit in Taksim Square, a circular Turkish bread often coated with sesame seeds - Istanbul

I thought these marquees, seen around the city, were food markets but apparently they're like food banks, helping those affected by Turkey's recent economic hardships - Istanbul

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LINKS

www.goturkey.com - Turkish tourist board

www.evisa.gov.tr - online Turkish eVisa application

www.tcdd.gov.tr - Turkish railways

www.turkeytravelplanner.com - bus travel advice

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