UZBEKISTAN

Location - Central Asia; Capital - Tashkent; Population - 32 million; Currency - Som MORE UZBEKISTAN

Another fast train took me from Samarkand to my favourite Uzbek city, Bukhara - September 2018.

200 Som is worth less than 5 US cents

Straight across from the train station, through a small park, is Kagan Palace, aka Palace of the Railwaymen, built by Bukhara emir Abdul-Ahad Khan in the late 19th century - Bukhara

Top of my things to do - and a very obvious one - is a drink and a bite to eat at Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara

Lyabi-Hauz is the square centreed on a 17th century pool, surrounded by a restaurant of the same name. It's a tranquil, beautiful place to be in the morning and early afternoon - Bukhara

..and in the evening it busies up with tourists - both foreign and Uzbek - as well as locals. Throw in some live music for a great atmosphere - Bukhara

An exhibition of local dance and song in Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara

It's also a popular spot for wedding photos - Bukhara

A statue of Hoja Nasruddin stands in front of Nadir Divanbegi Madrasah - Bukhara

The courtyard of Nadir Divanbegi Madrasah on a warm September evening - Bukhara

Just off Lyabi-Hauz, along an alleyway in the old town, is the Jewish Community Centre & Synagogue - Bukhara

Carpets on display outside one of the many carpet shops in Bukhara

Taki-Zargaron, or Jewellers' Bazaar, is one of three covered bazaars in the centre - Bukhara

Though heavily renovated these date back to the 16th century. A drink at Lyabi-Hauz followed by a wander of the covered bazaars is a great way to spend a balmy evening - Bukhara

Colourful plates as well as pottery, traditional clothing, jewellery, carpets, ornaments, old Soviet coins and leatherware are just some of the items for sale - Bukhara

The courtyard of my hotel just a stone's throw from Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara

A catwalk show of traditional dress and decorative souvenirs at the Photo Gallery, a former caravanserai - Bukhara

Another courtyard, this time the setting for an open-air restaurant - Bukhara

The cute turquoise 'minarets' of the early 19th century Char Minar - Bukhara

Any idea what the significance is of these model birds on the Char Minar? - Bukhara

Take the steps up to a cafe rooftop for brilliant views of Kalon Minaret, Kalon Mosque (right) and Mir-a-Arab Madrasah (left) - Bukhara

Genghis Khan was so taken by the 47m high Kalon Minaret (built in 1127) that he spared its destruction - Bukhara

It's an amazing sight when illuminated, though for the life of me I can't work out how the lights set such an even shadow all the way up - Bukhara

Chilkdren play in the shadow of the Kalon Monaret - Bukhara

Through the entrance of the Mir-a-Arab Madrasah to the Kalon Mosque - Bukhara

Walking through the arches of the Kalon Mosque - Bukhara

The 16th century Kalon Mosque courtyard - Bukhara

Again some more fantastic tilework, this being of the Abdul Aziz Khan Madrasa - Bukhara

The impressive walls of the Ark, a royal fortress originally inhabited in the 5th century - Bukhara

Nearby is the former jail called the Zindon - Bukhara

Notable Zindon inmates were British soldiers Stoddart and Conolly, who had the unfortunate luck to spend a year in the Bug Pit, a 4m hole accessed only by rope, They were executed by the Emir of Bukhara in 1842 - Bukhara

Taking the ferris wheel ride in Samani Park, a 10min walk west of the Ark - Bukhara

Peering down on the 12th century Chashma Ayub Mausoleum from the ferris wheel - Bukhara

Paddling(?) in front of a section of the original ancient town walls - Bukhara

Shutting up shop outside the 16th century Abdulla Khan Madrasah - Bukhara

Opposite the Ark are the distinctive wooden columns of the Bolo-Hauz Mosque - Bukhara

A man tries to concentrate on the Koran while a hive of tourist activity buzzes around him - Bukhara

South of the centre is the late 19th century Fayzulla Khojaev House, - Bukhara

I took this picture behind a photographer who was in the middle of a Fayzulla Khojaev House photoshoot - Bukhara

Desert scenery on the overnight train from Bukhara to Urgench. I read the Bukhara to Khiva fast train was due to open in late 2018 but no such luck when I was there

After a 30min taxi ride from Urgench, I arrived at the inner walls of the Ichon-Qala (old city) - Khiva

The 19th century Kalta Minor Minaret stands next to a converted madrasah, now the Orient Star Hotel - Khiva

Souvenir stalls line the route to the Kalta Minor Minaret - Khiva

.. and plenty more stalls lie in the opposite direction, this time marked by the Juma Minaret - Khiva

The famed Uzbek bread is baked in clay tandoor ovens - Khiva

Gotta have the tourist camel photo - Khiva

Late afternoon is a great time of the day for soft, warm colours - Khiva

A woman sells sweets outside the old town walls - Khiva

The wooden columns of the Juma Mosque create an intriguing atmosphere of darkness and light - Khiva

Climb the 82 steps of the Juma Minaret, next door to the mosque, for quality views of the Ichon-Qala - Khiva

Some sort of balancing act/tightrope walking takes place in this courtyard - Khiva

Chaikhanas - or teahouses - are all over Central Asia, often consisting of tapchan (raised platforms with a central table). Take your shoes off, sip and relax - Khiva

If the mud mosques in Mali are anything to go by, the wooden poles exist to provide structural support - Khiva

The Islom Hoja Mosque and Minaret was built in 1910 - Khiva

Time to climb another minaret! My third ascent in Khiva... This time the 57m Islom Hoja Minaret on the left

But first I had a quick wander of the streets behind the mosque, which were far more residential and peaceful - Khiva

Laundry time at the base of the Islom Hoja Minaret. On the peaceful side of course.. - Khiva

Peek into courtyards and beyond the city limits from the minaret. The domed building is the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum - Khiva

14th century Pahlavon Mahmud was a poet and wrestling champion, and also the patron saint of Khiva

Walking the old city walls, though note you can't reach the watchtower (pictured) from here. Access is via the Kuhna Ark - Khiva

Some of the best views are from the watchtower above Kuhna Ark - Khiva

The Juma Minaret (left) and Islom Hoja Minaret (right) stand behind the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrash - Khiva

It feels like every tourist in Khiva is at the watchtower for sunset! It gets busy up there, but you're well rewarded

Sunset from the watchtower - Khiva

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LINKS

www.advantour.com - A Central Asian tour operator but website has a wealth of information

https://caravanistan.com - The main resource for all things Central Asian - extremely useful

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