
UZBEKISTAN
Location - Central Asia; Capital - Tashkent; Population - 32 million; Currency - Som MORE UZBEKISTAN
Another fast train took me from Samarkand to my favourite Uzbek city, Bukhara - September 2018.
200 Som is worth less than 5 US cents
Straight across from the train station, through a small park, is Kagan Palace, aka Palace of the Railwaymen, built by Bukhara emir Abdul-Ahad Khan in the late 19th century - Bukhara
Top of my things to do - and a very obvious one - is a drink and a bite to eat at Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara
Lyabi-Hauz is the square centreed on a 17th century pool, surrounded by a restaurant of the same name. It's a tranquil, beautiful place to be in the morning and early afternoon - Bukhara
..and in the evening it busies up with tourists - both foreign and Uzbek - as well as locals. Throw in some live music for a great atmosphere - Bukhara
An exhibition of local dance and song in Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara
It's also a popular spot for wedding photos - Bukhara
A statue of Hoja Nasruddin stands in front of Nadir Divanbegi Madrasah - Bukhara
The courtyard of Nadir Divanbegi Madrasah on a warm September evening - Bukhara
Just off Lyabi-Hauz, along an alleyway in the old town, is the Jewish Community Centre & Synagogue - Bukhara
Carpets on display outside one of the many carpet shops in Bukhara
Taki-Zargaron, or Jewellers' Bazaar, is one of three covered bazaars in the centre - Bukhara
Though heavily renovated these date back to the 16th century. A drink at Lyabi-Hauz followed by a wander of the covered bazaars is a great way to spend a balmy evening - Bukhara
Colourful plates as well as pottery, traditional clothing, jewellery, carpets, ornaments, old Soviet coins and leatherware are just some of the items for sale - Bukhara
The courtyard of my hotel just a stone's throw from Lyabi-Hauz - Bukhara
A catwalk show of traditional dress and decorative souvenirs at the Photo Gallery, a former caravanserai - Bukhara
Another courtyard, this time the setting for an open-air restaurant - Bukhara
The cute turquoise 'minarets' of the early 19th century Char Minar - Bukhara
Any idea what the significance is of these model birds on the Char Minar? - Bukhara
Take the steps up to a cafe rooftop for brilliant views of Kalon Minaret, Kalon Mosque (right) and Mir-a-Arab Madrasah (left) - Bukhara
Genghis Khan was so taken by the 47m high Kalon Minaret (built in 1127) that he spared its destruction - Bukhara
It's an amazing sight when illuminated, though for the life of me I can't work out how the lights set such an even shadow all the way up - Bukhara
Chilkdren play in the shadow of the Kalon Monaret - Bukhara
Through the entrance of the Mir-a-Arab Madrasah to the Kalon Mosque - Bukhara
Walking through the arches of the Kalon Mosque - Bukhara
The 16th century Kalon Mosque courtyard - Bukhara
Again some more fantastic tilework, this being of the Abdul Aziz Khan Madrasa - Bukhara
The impressive walls of the Ark, a royal fortress originally inhabited in the 5th century - Bukhara
Nearby is the former jail called the Zindon - Bukhara
Notable Zindon inmates were British soldiers Stoddart and Conolly, who had the unfortunate luck to spend a year in the Bug Pit, a 4m hole accessed only by rope, They were executed by the Emir of Bukhara in 1842 - Bukhara
Taking the ferris wheel ride in Samani Park, a 10min walk west of the Ark - Bukhara
Peering down on the 12th century Chashma Ayub Mausoleum from the ferris wheel - Bukhara
Paddling(?) in front of a section of the original ancient town walls - Bukhara
Shutting up shop outside the 16th century Abdulla Khan Madrasah - Bukhara
Opposite the Ark are the distinctive wooden columns of the Bolo-Hauz Mosque - Bukhara
A man tries to concentrate on the Koran while a hive of tourist activity buzzes around him - Bukhara
South of the centre is the late 19th century Fayzulla Khojaev House, - Bukhara
I took this picture behind a photographer who was in the middle of a Fayzulla Khojaev House photoshoot - Bukhara
Desert scenery on the overnight train from Bukhara to Urgench. I read the Bukhara to Khiva fast train was due to open in late 2018 but no such luck when I was there
After a 30min taxi ride from Urgench, I arrived at the inner walls of the Ichon-Qala (old city) - Khiva
The 19th century Kalta Minor Minaret stands next to a converted madrasah, now the Orient Star Hotel - Khiva
Souvenir stalls line the route to the Kalta Minor Minaret - Khiva
.. and plenty more stalls lie in the opposite direction, this time marked by the Juma Minaret - Khiva
The famed Uzbek bread is baked in clay tandoor ovens - Khiva
Gotta have the tourist camel photo - Khiva
Late afternoon is a great time of the day for soft, warm colours - Khiva
A woman sells sweets outside the old town walls - Khiva
The wooden columns of the Juma Mosque create an intriguing atmosphere of darkness and light - Khiva
Climb the 82 steps of the Juma Minaret, next door to the mosque, for quality views of the Ichon-Qala - Khiva
Some sort of balancing act/tightrope walking takes place in this courtyard - Khiva
Chaikhanas - or teahouses - are all over Central Asia, often consisting of tapchan (raised platforms with a central table). Take your shoes off, sip and relax - Khiva
If the mud mosques in Mali are anything to go by, the wooden poles exist to provide structural support - Khiva
The Islom Hoja Mosque and Minaret was built in 1910 - Khiva
Time to climb another minaret! My third ascent in Khiva... This time the 57m Islom Hoja Minaret on the left
But first I had a quick wander of the streets behind the mosque, which were far more residential and peaceful - Khiva
Laundry time at the base of the Islom Hoja Minaret. On the peaceful side of course.. - Khiva
Peek into courtyards and beyond the city limits from the minaret. The domed building is the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum - Khiva
14th century Pahlavon Mahmud was a poet and wrestling champion, and also the patron saint of Khiva
Walking the old city walls, though note you can't reach the watchtower (pictured) from here. Access is via the Kuhna Ark - Khiva
Some of the best views are from the watchtower above Kuhna Ark - Khiva
The Juma Minaret (left) and Islom Hoja Minaret (right) stand behind the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrash - Khiva
It feels like every tourist in Khiva is at the watchtower for sunset! It gets busy up there, but you're well rewarded
Sunset from the watchtower - Khiva
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LINKS
www.advantour.com - A Central Asian tour operator but website has a wealth of information
https://caravanistan.com - The main resource for all things Central Asian - extremely useful
I am not responsible for the content of external websites.
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